Gemstone color (Hue-tone-saturation)

All natural gemstones boast unique colors. To better understand and identify different color parameters, it's essential to focus on three key aspects: hue, tone, and saturation. Each type of gemstone can display various color intensities, shades, purity levels, saturations, and tones. 

Hue, This is the main color that the eye perceives. Gemstones will often have a dominant body color as well as a secondary color. Identifying the hue is straightforward, as it corresponds to the gemstone being blue, red, green, yellow, etc.

Tone describes the intensity of the gemstone's color, ranging from light to dark. Ideally, the most valuable tone is neutral, meaning it is balanced—not too light or too dark, but somewhere in the middle. However, the desirability of different tones can vary based on the jewelry's design and setting, often influenced by personal taste and preference.

Saturation, also known as color purity, indicates how pure the color of the gemstone is. Gemstones with excellent saturation exhibit little to no brown or gray hues. Generally, the purer the color, the more valuable the gemstone.

Gemstone Cut

The art of lapidary, or gem cutting, has been refined over thousands of years. This skillful process transforms raw crystals into captivating gemstones, unlocking their innate luster, color, and brilliance. Our expert cutters shape each stone to maximize its unique properties and aesthetic potential. Xander Jane's commitment to quality ensures that most gemstones at XanderJane feature very good to excellent cuts.

The different parts of a gemstone. Due to the spherical nature of most rough, the oval is the most common shape for coloured gemstones as it typically best balances beauty and weight retention

Differences Between gemstone Cut vs Shape

What is the difference between diamond cut and shape? Both of these terms are used to describe how a diamond has been cut, but they mean slightly different things.

First, let's talk about what a diamond cut is. When you look at a diamond in its raw form, it looks like a big rough rock. But when it's cut into the shape and size of jewelry, it shines with brilliance and light that cannot  be replicated by any other gemstone or mineral. Diamonds come in many different cuts, but all of them have one thing in common: They're all somewhat symmetrical—meaning that if you look at them from above (or from the side), they will appear exactly the same as if you look at them from below (or from another angle).

The cut refers to how well-proportioned the facets on the diamond are, while the shape refers to how much light is reflected by each facet. If a diamond has poor proportions—say, too many facets or not enough—it will have less brilliance than other diamonds with better proportions. Similarly, if a diamond doesn't reflect enough light from each facet (which can be caused by having too few facets), it won't appear as bright or sparkly as other diamonds with more reflectivity from their facets.

The diamond cut grade will be included in the certificate of the diamond and ranges from poor/fair to ideal.

The difference between diamond cuts and shapes is one of quality. A cut refers to the proportions and angles of a gemstone, while shape describes its style.

Gemstone Clarity

The clarity scale for gemstones was originally designed to grade white diamonds specifically, rather than colored gemstones. It becomes challenging to apply a universal clarity classification system to colored gemstones due to their unique characteristics. In fact, inclusions in colored gemstones are often expected and can even serve as identifying features. For instance, the inclusions found in emeralds can provide evidence of their natural origin. Moreover, certain inclusions are considered desirable, such as "horsetail inclusions" in demantoid garnets or rutile "silk" in sapphires. Therefore, a standardized approach to clarity assessment may not be suitable for colored gemstones.

Colored Gemstones can have the following clarity grades:

• Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2) Inclusions so slight they are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification
• Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2) Inclusions are observed with effort under 10x magnification, but can be characterized as minor
• Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2) Inclusions are noticeable under 10x magnification
• Included (I1, I2, and I3) Inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification which may affect transparency and brilliance

Colored Gemstone Types

According to the GIA (Gemological Institute of America), there are three types of classification for colored gemstones. This is because of the variety of different colors, shades and tones which can be found in gemstones across the globe.

• TYPE 1 Gems Usually found without any inclusions. These include beryl gems, such as heliodor, aquamarine and morganite. They are usually ‘eye clean’, which means there are no inclusions visible with the naked eye.
• TYPE 2  Gemstones usually have inclusions but are found to be eye clean rather than loupe clean as Type 1 gems often are. Type 2 gemstones include amethyst, andalusite, alexandrite, garnet and peridot amongst others.
• TYPE 3 Gemstones almost always have visible inclusions. In this type you can find green emerald, a variety of tourmaline stone (blue in particular), rubellite, and other colors of tourmaline.

Combining Clarity Grading Codes and Types

Gemstone Carat Weight (Size)

Carat refers to the measure of the gemstone. Different types of stones will possess particular densities (mass per unit amount); therefore, two gems visually looking identical in size may differ in weights. For instance, a diamond is less dense than a ruby; for this reason, a 1-carat diamond will look bigger than a 1-carat ruby.

PRECIOUS STONES

Emerald

Rich and vivid green precious stones, their name was derived from the Greek word “smaragdos”, meaning green gem. Of the four main gemstones, along with diamonds, sapphires and rubies, emeralds come as exceptions due to their highly included surface and considerably less hardness when compared with other gemstones. The value of the emeralds is graded by the 4 C’s, color, cut, clarity and carats. However, the color is the most crucial aspect of these gemstones, making the bright, vivid green emeralds the most valuable. Clarity is the second most important criterion. As emeralds have a lot of inclusions, the more transparent the stone is, the more valuable it will be. Nowadays, you can mainly find these stones in Colombia, Zambia, Afghanistan, Australia, Austria, Brazil, Madagascar, Mozambique, Namibia, Nigeria, Norway, Pakistan, Russia, Somalia, South Africa, Spain, Switzerland, Tanzania and the United States.

Associated with the heart chakra, emeralds are said to be the stones of successful love. They are believed to bring peace, fidelity, and commitment, to assure friendship, loyalty and compassion. These gemstones have been fascinating people since ancient times. It was the favorite stone of Cleopatra, and it was believed in ancient Egypt to provide eternal life. Its healing power is the other reason that makes emeralds such exceptional stones. It is thought that they can work as antidotes, cleaning the body of poison or toxins and helping to recover after infectious diseases. They are said to help cure the heart and lungs and even restore failing eyesight.

Emeralds were considered stones of Venus, able to bring security in love and relationships, thus making them one of the best choices for the engagement rings. In addition to this, they are the traditional birthstones of May.

Sapphire

Sapphires come in quite a few different colors and hues, blue being the most popular and the most associated with this precious stone. Not coincidentally, its name derives from Latin “sapphirus’’, meaning blue. One of the hardest stones on earth, 9.00 on the Mohs scale, sapphires are surpassed only by diamonds and moissanite. Among the 4 C’s (color, cut, clarity and carats) for determining the value of the sapphires, the color is the most important property. The most valuable sapphires will be of the rich, vivid blue color, not too dark and without a grayish tinge. These precious stones are found nowadays in Sri Lanka, Vietnam, China, Thailand, Australia, the United States, Madagascar and East Africa.

Many myths and beliefs surround the sapphires. Ancient Persians believed that the sky was painted blue to look like the color of sapphires. They remain the main royal gemstones in modern times. Sapphire is also the gemstone on the engagement ring given to Lady Diana by Prince Charles. Sapphires are believed to soothe anxiety, calm the nerves, and make the mind clearer. They are associated with the throat chakra, which means that the sapphires might be helpful in understanding your inner self. While providing calmer energies, they also help you concentrate and become more self-motivated. Sapphires are said to have healing powers, helping with indigestion and taking away apathy and lethargy.

Sapphires symbolize commitment, fidelity and pure love, making these precious stones perfect choices for the engagement rings. They are also the birthstones of those born in September.

Ruby

One of the four main precious stones, along with diamond, sapphire and emerald, ruby takes its name from its colour, from the Latin word “Rubeus’’ meaning red. They are closely related to sapphires, as these stones are of the corundum family. Rubies are one of the hardest stones, having a hardness of 9.00 on the Mohs scale, yielding only to diamond and moissanite. The value of these gemstones is measured by the 4 C’s like the other gemstones - colour, cut, clarity and carats, including their place of origin. The most valuable rubies come in darker rich red colour, carrying the name of “pigeon’s blood”, not containing any hues of yellow or blue. Nowadays, rubies can be obtained in Myanmar, Madagascar, Nepal, Pakistan, Tajikistan, Tanzania, Vietnam and the United States.

Since ancient times, rubies have been called the stones of love and passion, even considered to be aphrodisiacs, attracting sexual activity. They are believed to provide energy and enthusiasm and fight tiredness and exhaustion. Rubies make the mind clearer, improve concentration and increase motivation. These gemstones are believed to be able to settle arguments, have the power of reconciliation, and protect from evil thoughts. Rubies are said to have healing powers, as they are associated with the heart chakra; they are believed to detoxify the body and blood. They are helpful for the heart, lower down fevers and treat restricted blood flow.

Rubies are the birthstones for those born in July and are one of the main stones chosen for the engagement rings because of their strong symbolism of passion and love. They are traditionally given as presents on the 15th and 40th wedding anniversaries

Black Diamond

More Diamond Jewelry

Classified as a precious stone, natural black diamonds are entirely opaque, which differentiates them from most diamonds. They are considered quite valuable since they are stunningly beautiful and very precious. However, they are still more affordable compared to other coloured diamonds.

There are contradictory myths and beliefs regarding the black diamonds and what they represent. According to the Indian legend, they represent Yama, the god of death. However, the Italian belief is almost in direct opposition, stating that this is the stone of reconciliation - so it is believed the black diamond can help with tying loose ends in a relationship and making it work.

Carat - The carat is the unit of weight by which a diamond is measured. The price difference among different sellers is a result of various reasons. For example, naturally mined black diamonds would be more expensive but are still a cheaper alternative than other coloured diamonds. The black ones are often harder to polish, which may affect the cut.

Cut - Naturally mined black diamonds do indeed look very rough, so they need to be shaped using various methods, and this process is called cutting or polishing. This is done with the help of a thin toothless circular saw blade. The action of "cutting" is performed by the diamond dust with which the blade itself was impregnated.

Clarity - A stone's clarity indicates the number of flaws or inclusions present in the diamond. But when it comes to Black Diamonds, it is not as important as they do not refract light as much as the other diamonds.

Color - Natural black diamonds can be found in the rough with this same black color, resulting in them being extremely popular due to their color's rarity. They owe their color to the graphite, which formed in the crystalline structure during the diamond's formation. Naturally, they only come in one color-intensity, Fancy Black.

White Sapphire

White sapphire, a precious stone, can be used in place of diamonds occasionally, not only because of the resemblance or reduced cost but also because the hardness of white sapphire is second only to diamonds. They come a close second on the Mohs scale with a hardness of 9. In comparison, the diamonds hold a hardness of 10. Given that case, this gemstone is durable and well suited for jewelry making.

According to popular beliefs, this gemstone brings wisdom and strength of spirit. It encourages unleashing one’s talents and potential while inspiring the individual to live with integrity, staying true to their ideals. The white sapphire is also suitable for a promise between lovers. It symbolizes those who had to give up everything for each other and discourages jealousy in the earlier stages of the partnership or marriage.

Carat - There is a difference between the diamonds and the sapphires in general when it comes to the carat. They might have similar carat, but they will weigh differently, the sapphire being the heavier one. It is recommended that when in doubt about which carat you should choose for a White Sapphire, you consider its size in millimeters.

Cut - Unlike diamonds, the white sapphires need to be cut in a custom way to highlight the uniqueness of the stone. Every jeweler will set their standard when it comes to sapphire cuts, and they will aim to focus on the color of the stone to ensure the quality, as there is no standard “ideal cut” set for sapphires in general.

Clarity - Similar to others, there is a difference when comparing clarity between white sapphire and a diamond. Since sapphires are mined in an environment rich in trace minerals, which can readily damage the gemstone, it is expected that all sapphires will have some inclusions. Eye-clean white sapphires are extremely rare.

Colour - it is not very common for a sapphire to be white and white sapphires of good quality are rare. These stones are referred to as “colorless”. Some of the white sapphires come with a very pale tint of blue, pink or yellow.